Puppy Parent Info

Chimera Shih Tzu

We have compiled a list of favorite & recommended items to help you plan your puppy coming home.

Shih Tzu Puppy Shopping List

CHIMERA SHIH TZU


Welcome to the Chimera Shih Tzu family and congratulations on your new puppy. We hope this pup brings you many years of joy and companionship. We love hearing about them as & seeing photos or videos as they grow up. Feel free to send updates anytime!

Please also send us any questions or concerns you have at any point in time. We are always here to help, no matter what the situation.

If you ever find yourself in the unexpected and unfortunate situation of needing to find another home for your Chimera Shih Tzu, we are here to help. They are welcome back home, always, with no explanation needed, no judgement, we will be here for our babies – for life.

Feel free to reach out anytime. We look forward to hearing from you!
Email: chimerashihtzu@gmail.com
Text Stephanie: 580-480-5884 (no calls)
Facebook Message: Chimera Shih Tzu on Facebook
Website: ChimeraShihTzu.com
“Shih Tzu Lovers of Florida” group on Facebook

In this section we will cover,

  • Reserving Puppy
  • Picking Up Puppy
  • Chimera Gift Bag
  • Chimera Paperwork Folder
  • Baxter & Bella Training 25% Coupon
  • Trupanion Pet Insurance 30 Days Offer **MUST ACTIVATE WITHIN 24 HRS OF PICKING UP PUPPY**
  • Vaccines
  • Deworming
  • Recommended Items


RESERVE YOUR PUPPY

It all starts when you choose an available puppy. We accept a $200 nonrefundable deposit to reserve the puppy of your choice until they are 8-10 weeks old and cleared by the veterinarian to go home. We will take good care of your baby providing lots of cuddles, kisses, learning opportunities, and socialization until they’re ready to go home to you. We post updates frequently on our Facebook page & our puppy family group on Facebook.

The deposit can be paid through Zelle (580-480-5884, Stephanie Matlock) or Venmo (@ChimeraShihTzu).

The remaining balance can be paid at time of pickup. We accept cash (preferred), Zelle, or Venmo. Be aware that some banks do have limits on how much they will allow you to send in Zelle in a 24 hr or 7 day period. Check your bank’s sending limits before depending on this at pickup. I have USAA and they only allow me to send $1,000 per day or $2,500 per week through Zelle. Some banks allow larger transfers.

PUPPY PICKUP

Puppies can be picked up between 8 & 10 weeks in Port Charlotte. We won’t have a firm date for pickup until after we have their 8 week appointments with the veterinarian for their vaccines and health checks. Once we have their FL State Health Certificates in hand, then we can make plans for puppy pickups. We normally receive these at their 8 week appointment, but it is at the discretion of the veterinarian. If they feel the puppies need to stay longer for any reason, we will always follow their advice.

We are in Port Charlotte Florida, along the SE end of Englewood. We are conveniently situated between Tampa, Sarasota, and Fort Myers.

I am very flexible with pickup times and dates. Just let me know what works best for you and we can see if we can work around that.

Once we have health certificates after their vet appt, we will confirm and schedule puppy pickups.

PUPPY GIFT BAG

We send home a few basic items that the puppies are familiar with to help get you started.

  • HARNESS – Voyager Harness & leash XXXS size
  • DOG BED – A small familiar bed
  • FOOD Royal Canin – Small Breed Puppy
  • SHAMPOO -Plum Silky
  • CHEWS & TREATS – chicken foot, yak cheese chew, meat stick, cow hoof
  • NAIL TRIMMERS – Miller’s Forge
  • BRUSH – A small pin brush
  • FLEA COMB – Used for combing the face and under the eyes
  • TOOTHBRUSH – Used to get puppy familiar with dental care
  • TOYS – Small familiar toys
  • SMALL BOWL – A small bowl for water while traveling

IN FOLDER

The paperwork folder holds your Florida State Health Certificate. Bring this to your veterinarian at your first appointment. It has vaccine & deworming history that your vet will need to see.


If you have any concerns on the health of your puppy, please let me know and also get them to a veterinarian asap.

In your puppies folder, you will find:

  • Official FL State Health Certificate from vet (this is your official vaccine record)
  • 30 days of Trupanion Health Insurance offer code in folder. Must sign up within 24 hours before or after picking up puppy.
  • Microchip paperwork, FiNano
  • Vaccine & Deworming record
  • AKC Limited Registration
  • Our puppy health guarantee/contract
  • Embark DNA & OFA health testing certificates of parents
  • Baxter & Bella Puppy Training 25% OFF code CHIMERA25

PUPPY PEN

A puppy pen is a great place to keep puppy safe when they aren’t being directly supervised. Puppies need confined space, routine, and structure for potty training. Given too much space too quickly will set them up for repeated potty accidents. They also are very much babies still and need a lot of down time and rest. Giving them a couple breaks throughout the day in their “puppy apartment” gives them the downtime they need to sleep and process all they’ve learned through the day.

I use IRIS 4×4 pens. This is plenty of space for a puppy bed, food, water, chews & toys, and a potty pad. If you are teaching your puppy to only potty outside, you don’t need to use a potty pad. You can use a water bottle instead of a bowl. If you use a crate, you can keep one corner of the pen open and ziptie it to the crate to make the space a little bigger for pup. I also like to hang toys on the sides of the pen. Hanging crib/stroller toys are great. They typically jingle, crinkle, and have a rubber end for chewing or grabbing. My dogs grab that rubber end and shake the toy, sometimes quite violently haha!

In my home, I give the puppies as much time as they are content in the pen. When they are awake and ready to play, we go straight outside for a potty break. After going potty, we come back inside to play. They get a chance to play with the toys around the house, explore the chews, and learn social skills with the other dogs. We cuddle on the couch and watch tv. After a little while, we head back outside for another potty break. When they start to slow down, I put the puppy back in their pen so they can get some food, water, and a little nap. Once they’re recharged and ready ready for more, we head straight outside to potty again before coming back inside for some free time around the house. In the beginning, their pen time is highly structured. As they learn their potty and house skills, they get more and more freedom. If we leave the house, they go in their pen. At night, they go in their pen. If they start getting agitated with the other dogs, they are over tired toddlers and they go in their pen for a nap. If they have a potty accident, back outside and then back to their pen. They have everything in their pen they need except companionship. We DO NOT want to isolate them in any way, but we want to set them up for success so their time free in the house is enjoyable and successful in training progression. Use the pen as much or as little as your puppy needs. Each one is different. It is very healthy and helpful for them to learn to relax in their pen and learn to entertain themselves. If you let them stick to you like glue and never leave their sight, you will be creating the recipe for separation anxiety. Let them learn a healthy dose of independence from the start while giving them the rest and potty training routine that will help them regulate and learn. You will enjoy each other so much more with less stress, less corrections, and less messes.

FOOD


Your puppy has been started on Royal Canin – Small Breed Puppy Food. Your puppy will be sent home with a small bag. We also have Royal Canin email you a coupon towards your first order. At the time of this writing, they offer a 35% off coupon, but that can change over time.


I typically free-feed puppies under 4 months of age. This means I leave a bowl of food down at all times for them to graze when they’re hungry. You can transition your puppy to 3 scheduled meals per day if you prefer.

They are eating dry food at this age. Don’t give canned food as it can upset their stomach. If you feel they aren’t eating enough you can add warm water to a small bowl of dry food. The water will soak into the food and soften it. They really like this! You can also offer plain cooked chicken as a treat or mixed into their food.
If you would like to change their food to something else, give them a little time before switching. Then you can slowly shift their diet by mixing the old food in with your new choice of food.


Start with 1/4 new food and 3/4 of the Royal Canin I send home, to avoid upset tummy from the change. When poops are solid after the addition of new food, then you can do 50/50 new/old food, then 75/25 new/old food, and finally have 100% of the new food. Watch for tummy upset as young puppies are prone to a variety of infections with such young immune systems. An inflamed or irritated GI tract makes an easy entrance for unwanted visitors such as parasites, bacteria, and virsues.

TREATS

Treats are great for bonding and training your pup as they learn your routine and expectations. Soft treats are usually accepted more readily. I find the best treats are fresh foods. Lick treats are also very popular with the puppies. Cat lick treats are easier to find and are fine for the puppies. There are also some dog lick treats available. You may find them in Petstores, on Amazon, or Chewy.com.

When giving treats, especially training, remember this is a TREAT, not a buffet. Give tiny nibbles of food so your puppy is rewarded and quickly turns their attention back to you for more guidance. They want to know how to get more of that good stuff. Use that to your advantage and show them what you want or expect.

I use:

  • Cooked chicken, tiny pieces
  • Scrambled eggs, tiny pieces
  • Freeze dried treats (liver, lung, lamb, fish, chicken)
  • Cheese, tiny pieces of sliced cheese or a tiny lick from a can of cheese
  • Peanut butter, small licks. Be sure there is NO XYLITOL (artificial sugar) in the ingredients.
  • Their usual dry food (kibble) can even be used!
  • Bil Jac – Little Jacs Training Treats (chicken liver flavor)
  • Bil Jac Peanut Butter & Banana Flavor
  • Jinx Tiny Treats – Beef & Banana Recipe
  • Beef Lung – single ingredient treats

CHEWS

Chews are used as enrichment, boredom busters, teething, dental health, and more! Chews should be relatively long lasting (sometimes several minutes, some chews last for months) and should be a workout for your pup. These are not for gulping, like training treats. Appropriate chews help teach pup what is acceptable to gnaw on. They help pups get acclimated to relaxing with separation, such as in their puppy pen, a crate, or when you leave the house. Good chews will give your pup a mental and physical workout, with the sensory input, pressure, taste, and smell all feeding their senses. Access to chews will help alleviate the soreness of teething and when pups are older the chews will help them loosen their puppy teeth. This is important to make room for the permanent adult teeth to come in straight. Shih Tzu are notorious for losing their puppy teeth late, but we can really help that progress with hard enough chews that they enjoy. Plus, it gives their teeth a nice brushing in the process!

I use mostly natural chews with my dogs. I leave some of these out with their toys all the time. Some chews are more high value to the dogs and coincidentally also more expensive and gobbled up quickly, so I do use some chews as occasional treats, such as chicken feet. Maybe once or twice a week I’ll give all the dogs a chicken foot. They crunch through and gobble them up! Bully sticks take longer to chew through, but they really love them and will take turns going back to them until they’re all gone. I pass out bully sticks every 1-2 weeks. Lamb cheek chews are pretty small, thin, and can be gnawed through by older dogs. I pass these out like candy and they love them! The harder chews that don’t “dissapear” get left out for the dogs to pick up whenever they feel the need or urge to chew. These are cow hooves, beef cheek chews (strips, rolls, or braids), and yak cheese chews (expensive but last long).

TRAINING – Baxter & Bella


So, you are about to be a puppy parent –Congratulations!Maybe this is your first time or maybe you are adding to your crew, either way, we are so excited for you. We want to make sure that you are prepared to be the very best puppy parent you can be and offer you an amazing resource.

Being a responsible dog owner ensures that you provide a plan to train your canine companion to be the calm, well-mannered and the best behaved doggie that you could ever want. A trained dog is less stressful, not only in the beginning, but for life. Proper socialization and manners will give you the dog you are envisioning. But you have to do the work and stay committed. They deserve it!

Start training them the day they come home and do it from the comfort of your own house.Online training is one thing, but an entire lifetime membership is a whole new adventure for you and your pup. Please get started today, before you pick up your new fur baby, and make a plan to set you both up for success! Make sure to download the app!!

So, how do you do that?

Visitwww.baxterandbella.comand use coupon code:CHIMERA25for 25% OFF. That means for $178, you can feel confident that you are giving your pup and your family the relationship you desire for a lifetime of fun, excitement and happiness!

VACCINE SCHEDULE


Every vet has their own personal preference on puppy vaccine schedules. Follow your veterinarian’s advice, even if it differs from mine. Your vet knows best! I’m happy to discuss if you have any questions or concerns.

Your puppy was vaccinated at 8 weeks old. The actual date is in your folder. This is a 5-way distemper/parvo combo vaccine. They also receive a bordatella (kennel cough) vaccine at that appointment.

Personally, I recommend & follow the AVMA Vaccine Schedule Guidelines of puppy vaccines (Distemper/Parvo) at 8, 12, and 16 weeks.

Rabies vaccine is often given at 16-20 weeks old, then yearly. I like to wait until puppy is a little older. My personal preference would be rabies at 6 months old when possible.

Too many vaccines at once can be harsh on their little baby systems at such small sizes. Space out vaccines when possible, especially rabies. I always have rabies given separately from other vaccines on little babies.

I do not recommend any other vaccines. I avoid leptospirosis vaccines unless the puppy is in a high risk area and then wait until they’re a little older before giving this vaccine. I do not recommend the lyme vaccine or the rattlesnake vaccine.



MICROCHIP


Your puppy has been microchipped with a FiNano brand microchip. Visit nano.tryfi.com/register to register the microchip in your name and enter your contact information so you can be contacted if your Shih Tzu is ever lost. This is a free service included with your FiNano microchip. Look for the yellow card in your folder to get started.


TRUPANION INSURANCE – 30 Days Free!

Trupanion offers 30 days of pet insurance thatmust be activated within 24 hours of bringing your puppy home.You can call Trupanion at 1-855-266-2156 or go to Trupanion.com to enroll.

PROMO CODE FOR OFFER: (in email & paperwork folder for puppy families)

Your “Go Home Day Offer” provides instant coverage against unexpected accidents and illnesses for the first 30 days with your new puppy. There is no upfront cost or commitment. Trupanion pays the veterinarian directly for coveredexpenses. This is the easiest way to begin planning ahead and budgeting for a lifetime of your pet’s health care needs. This coverage is opt-in, so it will cancel automatically after 30 days unless you decide to enroll for continued coverage. There’s no reason not to take advantage of that peace of mind in the first 30 days!

This is very helpful to have established right away because if the unthinkable happens, with illness or injury, if you do not have insurance it would be considered a “pre-existing condition” and not covered by new insurance policies.

It’s SO EASY to setup online, no risk, no cost, it will automatically cancel if you do not take action to renew/continue coverage after 30 days. Great peace of mind to protect your new puppy.

Most Pet insurance only covers accidents, injuries, and illnesses. They do not cover routine expenses like spay, neuter, and vaccinations. For example, insurance probably won’t cover heartworm or flea preventatives or vaccinations – but if your dog gets heartworm, tapeworm, or parvo virus, insurance should cover that treatment expense. There are some rare but very expensive conditions that insurance will cover. The first 30 days is a great time to have that coverage and peace of mind.

PARASITES/WORMS


Routine deworming is done the same time as vaccines.

Puppies are exposed to many parasites on the ground, so be sure to maintain a good deworming schedule and contact your veterinarian for any alarming poop. They can test and treat quickly if anything comes up.

Your puppy tested negative, completely clear of parasites at the veterinarian before going home. We have a strict puppy deworming schedule, bio security at home, and veterinary grade sanitizer to keep things clean and safe to make sure there are no hidden dangers creeping into their delicate little digestive tracts.


However, there are many parasites and infections that are harbored in the everyday environment that most people would never even know about. Most of these things wouldn’t cause any harm to a mature, healthy, vaccinated adult dog, but can wreak havoc on a young delicate puppy with immature immune system. Be aware that you can track in viruses, bacterial infections, and parasite eggs on your shoes and even into your house.

Besides the neighborhood dogs, there are many wildlife animals that also carry and drop some of these parasites and infections onto the ground and into your yard. These bacteria, viruses, and parasites can lurk in the soil, grass, or water in your backyard or anywhere else that people, pets, or wildlife have walked. Even birds flying overhead can drop feces.


This isn’t a time to panic or to lock your puppy away from the world, but do be careful and aware to protect your little friend. Keep your pup away from places sick dogs may walk or toilet such as vet office floors, dog parks, dirty water puddles, and public pet toilet areas until they are fully vaccinated and at least 4 months old. If you notice any gastrointestinal symptoms or have concerns of your puppy’s appetite, energy level, or poop, then please contact your veterinarian to discuss.

Deworming will treat or prevent parasites (internal and external). Common puppy parasitic infections in Florida are heartworm, giardia, coccidia, roundworm, hookworm, whipworms, and fleas can also transmit tapeworms. Vaccines are separate and prevent bacterial and viral infections that dog’s can become infected from other dogs or wildlife. These diseases are parvovirus, distemper, bordatella (kennel cough), leptospirosis, and rabies. It’s very important to keep puppies up to date on vaccines & deworming due to their immature immune system. They are like little kids in daycare putting everything in their mouth and sharing all the germs! Once they mature, they are far less likely to catch these infections or parasites.


FLEA/TICK/HEARTWORM


When your puppy leaves here, they aren’t quite big enough yet for flea, tick, or heartworm prevention or control.


Your puppy has NOT been exposed to any of these parasites when they leave our home.
You will want to discuss with your veterinarian what options they recommend for flea, tick, and heartworm prevention or control, depending on their experience and your environment.

Due to the year round warm weather, Florida has a high risk and high rates of infection with fleas, ticks, and heartworm infections that are transmitted by mosquitos. These preventatives are usually given year round in our area. Heartworm prevention is absolutely crititcal to keep your puppy healthy. We have a lot of mosquitoes that can be carrying this dangerous parasite. Even if your Shih Tzu stays indoors, they can still become infected!

Be aware that the oral products can have a higher risk for causing seizures.

Revolution is a great topical product available from your veterinarian that covers heartworms, fleas, and ticks. Discuss with your veterinarian.

SPAY/NEUTER


Neuter 4-6 months old boys


Spay 6-12 months + girls


We always recommend to connect with a veterinarian you trust, that you are confident in, and that you can ask questions to. Ideally, follow your veterinarian’s advice on the planning of your puppy’s spay or neuter.


In general, our advice is for little boys to have their neuter scheduled before 6 months old. Some veterinarians will say any time after the testicles have dropped. I believe in waiting until at least 4 months old. This will nip those boy hormones before they reach sexual maturity. If they are not neutered by 6 months, they may start marking inappropriately with urine as they lift their leg. This behavior can be curbed with training. However, in pet homes that do not plan on breeding, it’s often best to go ahead and neuter before this habit becomes an issue.


Girls are a little slower to develop and can use those hormones during their growth and development. Whether you choose to spay before or after their 1st heat cycle is up to you, your vet, and your situation. I personally do not spay before 6 months old but I also absolutely don’t believe they need to have a litter just for the experience. Breeding comes with many risks. If you’re interested in breeding and serious about doing so responsibly, please feel free to talk openly with me. If you plan to spay, discuss the best timeline with your trusted veterinarian. It is important to avoid unplanned litters. If you have intact dogs with access to each other, they WILL breed during those heat cycles. Prevent this by spaying & neutering before that happens.

I typically expect a cost of $200-500 for the average spay or neuter. Spays are more expensive than neuters. Costs will be higher if there are additional services such as pre-surgery bloodwork, vaccines, or hernia repair. Many veterinarians are going to be over $600. If you are looking for a lower cost spay or neuter, search online for “low cost spay neuter near me” to find low cost clinics. Also check with your local shelters or humane societies on who they recommend for lower cost spays and neuters.

If you are local, there is a new low cost spay neuter clinic in Port Charlotte called Southwest Florida Spay Neuter Services. Dr. Kerstin Martin Del Campo is very nice and does an excellent job. I have recently used this clinic and was very happy with the job they did. They are a “low cost” clinic, and prices are shockingly cheap, but the care is absolutely top quality. They are very efficient and have extensive skill in this narrow window of veterinary care. They do a great job, but it is a bit of an impersonal experience. They ask questions when you drop off and carry off your baby to the back. You’ll pick up at the designated time, 3 pm. They bring your sleepy head out and hand him/her over. That’s it. You won’t have a chance to sit and talk to the veterinarian, there won’t be lengthy talks about how the surgery went. It’s very much in and out, which is honestly great when it’s very uneventful and routine.

At the time I’m typing this email, the prices at Southwest Florida Spay Neuter Clinic are $130 for boys and $160 for girls. Prices seem to creep up, along with everything else, but they remain very affordable. They can also do routine vaccines, rabies, heartworm test, repair umbilical hernias, or undescended testicles at the time of surgery. All services are very competitively priced, and again, they do an excellent job, it’s just a very high volume clinic and the focus is on the “behind the doors” care, not necessarily a lot of discussion with the pet owner, which could be off-putting to some nervous pet parents. I understand surgery is a big deal and some prefer a more one on one personal approach with the veterinarian. 

If you have more concerns with your pet, if you’d like more one on one time with the veterinarian, or if you’d like any other procedures done during the spay/neuter, I would recommend using a regular veterinary clinic. 

For a regular veterinary clinic, I recommend Dr. Shaw at Choice Vet in Punta Gorda. He is an excellent surgeon and very experienced with Shih Tzu and other brachycephalic breeds.

Dr. Dawn at Myakka River Animal Clinic in Venice is also great for spays and neuters. She’s a little rough around the edges in bedside manners but she is a very smart lady, extremely intuitive with the health of the dogs, a skilled veterinarian, and very fair in pricing. She is usually around $200 for neuters and $250 for spays. Prices may have gone up since the last time I’ve checked. Prices everywhere, for everything, just keep rising. Unfortunately the veterinarians are also forced to increase prices to be able to afford all the supplies and employees needed to care for our precious pets. The places I’ve mentioned are very fair and competitive in prices locally. They are also very kind, dedicated veterinarians that I trust.

Other local veterinarians that I’ve checked with charge $600-$1,000+ for spays or neuters. 

There are also other low cost & highly experienced (safe for healthy dogs) clinics at shelters that are closer to $100 per puppy or dog. 


POTTY TRAINING


Your puppy has started on potty training using potty pads. We encourage you to continue this training with structure for good habits that will last a lifetime.


A puppy pen will help your puppy maintain routine when they aren’t being supervised. These pups are so tiny & young when they go home, it helps them a lot to have a safe space they can rest, potty, eat, and play while they are getting acclimated with their new environment and family. They can be in their pen anytime they aren’t being supervised. This keeps them safe, prevents them from chewing furniture or cords, keeps them away from doors, and keeps them from pestering another pet that isn’t quite ready for puppy in the face affection. I use a puppy pen with a bed, a potty pad, a couple toys, food & water dishes. Just the essentials.


The pups are familiar with potty pad training, but they are still just babies!! Going to a new home is like us walking into a huge department store or mall. When you gotta go, running around trying to find the sign for the bathroom, you end up on the wrong side of the store and then have to hussle back to the other wall before you spring a leak! Think from the puppy’s perspective, silly little babies, they get distracted, engaged, forget where the potty is, or don’t feel the urge until it’s too late to get all the way back, if they can even find their way.


My #1 rule is getting your puppy to the potty BEFORE they realize they need to go. If you wait until they feel the urge, you may be too late. They are learning SO MUCH at this age, and the transition to a new home can be a lot to process.


When puppies are learning their new space, I like to put them in their potty area (whether you do pads, a pen, or outside):

  • Every 15 minutes that they are up / playing / walking around
  • As soon as they wake up from a nap, morning ect
  • Before they come out of their pen to play or snuggle – potty 1st!!
  • As soon as you get home, they see you get excited, distracted, potty 1st!
  • After eating
  • When in doubt, offer the potty! Then play, snuggle, eat, explore, engage.
    Offering the potty frequently helps them to remember where it is and keeps it in the front of their mind that is the designated area to toilet. So as they are blown away by the awesomeness of their new house, family, dog friends, toys, new beds, new sounds and lights and so much fun – oh yeah, and there’s my potty. A little helping hand goes a long way in developing good lifelong potty habits and manners.

GROOMING


A puppy visit at the groomer is usually just to acclimate them to the environment. They may trim nails, paw pads, tush, and or around the eyes, but a good groomer knows this is more of a training visit than a polished look visit. We are building positive associations with the grooming salon for your puppy, not pushing them to a full-length groom. I encourage you to set this appointment up as soon as your groomer will allow.


Some groomers will schedule puppies after their first vaccines. Some go as far as to wait until after rabies vaccine, which is usually at 4-5 months old. If you have a preferred groomer, follow their advice. If you’re looking for a groomer, ask their criteria or minimum age for a puppy visit. Call around until you find the right fit. A little extra effort in the beginning will help make grooming sessions far easier and less stressful for the rest of their life.


Grooming at home should also be done regularly with the priority of making positive experiences. It’s not worth brushing out a tangle if the puppy is going to be fearful of the brush.


My rules for grooming:

  • NEVER groom if you’re in a rush, irritated, distracted, or impatient
  • Give the puppy ample praise and patience. This is a learning experience!
  • Never force a scared puppy. Listen to your baby’s body language. They can be stubborn and need direction, but if they become scared you will do more harm than good.
  • Groom when you AND pup are in the right mindset. When you are eager to work with puppy and preferably when puppy is worn out.
  • Early grooming gets lots and lots of praise, treats, lick treat tubes, bites of chicken, and yummy chews like chicken feet to keep them relaxed, happy, and focused on the task.
  • Give puppy a good play session to wear out and run around. Once they settle down for a nap fully relaxed is a great time to gently introduce grooming.
  • Don’t worry about cutting or maintaining hair, just focus on teaching the SKILLS your puppy will use as they mature into long haired dogs.
  • Sit in the evenings watching tv, with a special chew for puppy, while caressing with a brush. Remember, it should feel good for puppy!
  • Trim just the tip of the toenails every 2 weeks.
  • Baths every 2-3 weeks. Don’t let puppy get cold! Use very warm water and have towels nearby.
  • Brush and comb all over, every day! Just make sure it’s POSITIVE for puppy.

STENOTIC NARES


Shih Tzus are a breed prone to Stenotic Nares, also called pinched or tight nostrils, due to the shape of their face. The flatter & squishier the face, the more likely the nostrils are to be tight. Most commonly however, this is only temporary while they are teething. While Shih Tzu puppies are teething, there can be some temporary soft tissue swelling. This can last for 6 months or more, usually less, and resolves on its own with nothing to worry about. While their nostrils are tight, they may wheeze a little more with the restricted airflow. You may see some clear water droplets or bubbles around the nose. The puppy may sneeze a little to clear the nasal passage. These are not cause for concern. Once their adult teeth are fully erupted it will open their face a little more, making more room for those nostrils to open back up.


Some veterinarians may jump the gun wanting to perform surgery on Shih Tzu puppies to give them wider nostril openings. We do not recommend this. Just give that baby time to grow up and mature into their breed features.

Here’s an article from the national breed club, the American Shih Tzu Club, regarding teething issues involving the nostrils. https://shihtzu.org/teething_issues

” Pinched nostrils on and off are not uncommon among Shih Tzu puppies before their permanent teeth come in, which is normally at about 10 months of age. This problem generally resolves itself, especially if the nostrils are not so pinched as to interfere with the puppy’s ability to eat and breathe at the same time. If the puppy is active and gaining weight, do not be too concerned about a clear, watery, bubbly discharge from the nose, especially if his gums are swollen. A few dogs are so severely affected that they may need surgery later on, but this is a situation in which “wait and see” rather than surgery should be the normal response.”


If you have any concerns, do feel free to consult a trusted veterinarian familiar with the breed, and follow their guidance.
We trust Dr. Shaw @ Choice Vet in Punta Gorda.


UNDERBITES


An underbite is when the bottom jaw grows beyond the length of the top jaw. In some breeds this is considered a fault and may sometimes be pointed out by your veterinarian. In Shih Tzus, an underbite is a featured part of the breed standard. They are intentionally bred with the bottom teeth sticking forward just a little farther than the top teeth to give that flat face & endearing smile. This is perfectly fine!


However, there are varying degrees of underbites. We aim for a close or tight bite, keeping the top and bottom teeth as close together as possible. Genetics vary with each individual dog though and some puppies are going to have a bottom jaw that goes a little more forward than we intend. We will let you know before you pickup your puppy if we anticipate any noticeable variances from the breed standard, if your pup might have a more pronounced underbite.


Always feel free to discuss any concerns with your trusted veterinarian, but it’s very uncommon for an underbite to cause any issue for our Shih Tzus. Most of the time the worst-case scenario it just gives them the cutest toothy grin!!


RECOMMENDED ITEMS

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  • • My favorite training treat is tiny bites of cooked chicken.
  • • Bil Jac Littls Jacd treats are also great. They’re small, soft, easy to chew/eat and leave them eager for more – so they look right back to see what they need to do to earn another! Lots of Flavors https://amzn.to/3z4RFCQ
  • • Puppy Pen. I like starting puppies in a penned area that has a bed, toys, chews, and potty pads. As they get used to the house and routine they can have more and more supervised time out of the pen and then start having unsupervised time as their potty habits remain good. This is a good size for short periods in a pen. Some people put two together for more Play space. https://amzn.to/3O27qi9
  • • This baby gate/ play yard can be used as a stand alone pen, or as a gate to a wide opening. I’ve used it as both. I’ve also used it in a U or L shape to block the front door so dogs can’t dart out when the door opens. Super versatile and enough to make a nice sized puppy safe area. https://amzn.to/3RDvqLQ
  • • Plum Silky Dog Shampoo. You can use any dog or puppy shampoo, whatever you like, but a lot of people ask what shampoo we use because they like the scent when the puppies go home. https://amzn.to/3AUZrkl
  • • Chicken Feet. I like to offer natural chews and treats. Chicken feet are great for teething and boredom. https://amzn.to/3z8hqT3
  • • You can continue using potty pads or teach them to potty outside. Any potty pads are fine. I like Costco the best, they are large, and Sam’s is good too. Here’s some on Amazon. https://amzn.to/3O8i1bi
  • • I feed the puppies Royal Canin – Small Breed Puppy Food. I’ll send a small bag home so you can transition to the food of your choice, or continue the same food if that works for you
  • • Nontip food water bowls are nice to have! https://amzn.to/3z61jVV
  • • Voyager harnesses. I use these on all my dogs. I send puppies home with the size they fit in at the time, usually XXXS. They grow so fast at this age, if you want to order a bigger size of the same style later: https://amzn.to/3PrVffH
  • • Mini Trimmer. I use this handy little trimmer in my videos. I love it. I use it for tushies, under the feet (paw pads), under the eyes, and between the eyes. https://amzn.to/3uOQhBY
  • • Nail Trimmers. These are my favorite nail trimmers. I send a pair home with each puppy. https://amzn.to/3ParYX4
  • • Toys. The puppies like lots of toys. They like soft things to mouth on, lightweight toys to run with or fling about, things that Crinkle or squeak.
  • • Teething. While they are teething they also like things to chew on. Chicken feet, pig ears, bully sticks, cow hooves, cow cheek braids or rolls, lamb cheek strips, ect.